I am having problems with excessive condensation under my home. It is quite durable and attractive, considering the low price and affordability. I have a few concerns 1) Will the subfloor dry out adequately under the bottom plate (since they are sandwiched together)? I have had 2 air-conditioning repairmen come to check my AC unit and they are unable to find anything. When you replace the subfloor, the new ends have to sit on the joists, so cut out your wet subfloor along two joists on either side of the damage. When sealed with a waterproof veneer or a laminate cover, particle board is suitable for a range of applications. It is causing mold/mildew underneath my house. "Even if you're going to replace the boards, you can't rip up the damaged boards to reveal a soaking-wet subfloor and then install new material down over that," White said. When left unattended, this will cause your subfloor to get mushy and eventually cave in. I would bet that the house was insulated with unfaced insulation and the as a vapor barrier sheet polyethelene was installed over the bottom of the rafters and then the walls. >Major damage = Major damage happens when water is allowed to sit on a sub-floor for a long period of time. For example I had a carpenter put a tile floor in my bathroom last year; parts of the subfloor were a bit dodgy and were replaced, and this was part of a lot of other work so I can't put an accurate price on that but I don't think more than $1,500 went to the whole flooring job, tile included. Just as I suspected, the subfloor beneath still has a significant amount of moisture. The insulation is all wet (I have had this removed). The subfloor material you have installed in your basement is a good product to keep your flooring dry and make the floor warmer, but it has limited abilities to manage water. Again, the dry hardwood is installed on top of a wet subfloor and the bottom of the hardwood picks up the extra moisture from the subfloor and expands leading to cupping or even buckling the hardwood off the subfloor. Sweeping may be difficult if wall framing has been installed. A subfloor is what's underneath the floor; it's not plumbing. Subfloor puddle removal options: Sweeping and wet vacuuming are the preferred options for removing standing water on floor decks. Particle board is a wood product that is manufactured from waste wood particles, sawdust, and shavings. The ac lines are all flex insulated and they all condense, the wood in my subfloor is wet around the ac vents which appear to be spreading out. That’s when sub-floor surgery becomes your only option. Drilling well spaced weep holes no greater than ½” is a common approach but is the least effective method for removing standing water. Here is a picture of the affected area. This will vary from product to product. My thoughts was to turn my ac to a higher reading, close my vents, seal the walls down to the vapor barrier on the ground and add a dehumidifier and monitor humidity from there. Lastly, if your sub-floor is weak but not wet it could be from an old leak. Should I let it air dry out or (because it’s such a small section) use a skill-saw to cut out the exposed areas of plywood and replace with new pieces? What are my Subfloor Moisture Limits? As I said my bet would be that it is a roof leak and the reason you see it at the base of the wall is the way your house was insulated. A year later and after trying multiple methods to dry it out, the hardwood floor was still wet so I finally decided to rip out parts of the floor. Check there’s enough room under the floorboards for moisture to evaporate from the soil below and pass out through sub-floor wall vents. Some of my floors are now bulkling/swelling and in one room, the sheet rock is wet. Anyways, what do you guys think my plan of action should be? The tar paper between the subfloor and hardwood was also damp. Install a damp-proof course.
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